Where to travel in May: the Mediterranean before the summer crowds

Greece: the hills still green

In May Greece hasn't yet been scorched by the sun. In the Peloponnese – Nafplio, Monemvasia and the stone villages of the Mani – the hills are green, wildflowers grow among the olive groves, and you can walk Mycenae or Epidaurus even at midday. On Crete it's the best time for the gorges: the Samaria Gorge usually opens in spring once water levels allow, and in May it's still cool inside. Ferry schedules are filling out, but most boats aren't yet full.

Italy: the south before the heat

In Italy in May we'd head south. In Sicily the baroque towns of Noto and Ortigia still keep their own rhythm, the slopes of Etna are green, and on the Aeolian Islands – Salina or Stromboli – evenings by the sea are warm, even if the water is still fresh. In July and August the same paths and piazzas are hot and crowded. The one exception is the mountains: many Dolomites huts and lifts usually open only in the second half of June, so May is still too early for hiking there.

Portugal: the Douro turns green

In May the vines on the Douro's terraces are in fresh leaf and the river's bends look their greenest of the year. On the Alentejo plains the spring flowers are slowly turning into golden grass, the shade of the cork oaks isn't yet needed, and Évora's old town suits long walks. Portugal in May is a country for a slow pace: warm days, but the Atlantic is still cold, so this is a trip for wine, food and walking rather than swimming.

Croatia: the islands wake up

Croatia's coast wakes up in May: family restaurants reopen on the islands and ferries become more frequent, but the lanes of Dubrovnik and Split aren't yet full. At Plitvice the waterfalls usually carry the most water after the spring melt, and Istria's hill towns are green. Just note that some ferries between the smaller islands still run less often than in summer, so the route should follow the timetables.

Turkey: the last walking weeks

The Lycian Way – a walking trail above the turquoise coast between Fethiye and Antalya – is best in spring and autumn. May is usually the last month when longer stretches between Kabak, Patara and Kalkan are still pleasant; by June the midday heat means walking only in the mornings. Along the way: ancient rock tombs, pine forests and coves where, after a day's walk, you can already swim. In Cappadocia May is also comfortable for walking the valleys, though balloon flights, as always, depend on the wind.

And the sea?

It's the most common May question, and the answer depends on what you call warm water. The Mediterranean in May is usually cooler than in summer: pleasant for the brave, bracing for most, while the Atlantic off Portugal is still cold. So plan a May trip around walking, food and small towns, and treat swimming as a bonus. If the sea is the main point, mid-June or September will be more reliable.

In May, the Mediterranean is summer a few weeks early, without the crowds.