Dubrovnik's old town and city walls above the Adriatic in evening light

Southern Europe

Croatia

Stone harbours, pine-scented islands and konobas where lamb cooks slowly under embers.

Photo: Geio Tischler / Unsplash

For many, Croatia means summer beaches, but this coast has far more layers. In Dalmatia a Roman emperor's palace has become a living town, Venetian bell towers watch over harbours, and more than a thousand islands and islets invite a different direction every time.

The cooking changes with the landscape. In Istria's hill towns autumn smells of truffles, olive oil is pressed a few steps from the table, and Malvazija suits the seafood well. In Dalmatian konobas there is peka: lamb, octopus or vegetables baked slowly beneath an iron bell buried in embers.

Croatia opens up especially in spring and autumn. That's when you can walk Dubrovnik's walls in the calm of early morning, sail between the islands without the summer crowds, cycle through Istrian vineyards or paddle a kayak along the Elaphiti shores. A slower pace is richly repaid here.

Why go

01
The Dalmatian islands
Korčula with its defensive towers and moreška sword-dance tradition, Vis, closed for decades as a military zone and still quiet as a result, the lavender fields of Hvar, and Mljet, whose western end is a national park of saltwater lakes. Further north lies green Lošinj.
02
Split and Diocletian's Palace
Within the walls of a Roman emperor's palace, people still live, cafés open and a morning market sets up. Early in the day the Peristyle is almost empty, and by evening the Riva promenade fills with strollers. Ferries and boats leave from here for the islands.
03
Istria
Rovinj's colourful houses step straight down into the sea, while inland Motovun and Grožnjan crown their hills. In autumn truffles are hunted in the forests of the Mirna valley, olive oil estates open for tastings and winemakers pour Malvazija and Teran.
04
Plitvice and the national parks
The Plitvice lakes step down through the forest, linked by waterfalls and wooden walkways. In Krka the river tumbles over travertine terraces, and the canyons of Paklenica at the foot of Velebit offer hiking and climbing. Early in the morning or out of season, the trails are far quieter.

Ways to travel

Ways to experience it

Ways to travel aren't separate paths — the best journeys often bring several together.

Exceptional stays & escapes
Stone houses with a terrace above the sea, family-run hotels in old-town palazzi and agritourism farmhouses among Istria's olive groves.
Adventure & active travel
Kayaking off the Elaphiti islands, cycling routes over Istria's hills, hikes in the Paklenica canyons and sailing between the Dalmatian islands.
Honeymoons & special journeys
A few days aboard a gulet with a handful of cabins, dinner in a konoba above a cove and quiet mornings on Vis or Mljet.
Family journeys
Short transfers, shallow rocky coves, the wooden walkways of Plitvice and easy evenings in town squares — Croatia is a comfortable, relaxed choice for families.
Culture & discovery
Diocletian's Palace, the history of the Republic of Ragusa, Korčula's moreška and the markets and wine cellars of Istria's hill towns.
Tailor-made journeys
Ferry timetables, private boats and the route itself arranged so that island-hopping never feels rushed.

Croatia

Journey inspiration

Illustrative ideas for how a tailor-made journey could look. Not bookable packages: no prices, dates or inclusions are implied.

0112–15 days
From Istria to Dubrovnik
Rovinj and Istria's hill towns, the Plitvice lakes, Split and Korčula, and finally Dubrovnik in the early mornings and evenings when its streets are calmest.
Culture & discovery · Exceptional stays & escapes
Plan something like this
028–11 days
To the rhythm of the islands
A week aboard a gulet or sailing yacht between Hvar, Vis, Korčula and Mljet, swims in secluded coves and dinners in konobas reached only by sea.
Honeymoons & special journeys · Adventure & active travel
Plan something like this
036–8 days
An Istrian autumn
A slow route by bike or car between Motovun, Grožnjan and the coastal towns: truffle hunts, olive oil and wine tastings, evenings in Rovinj.
Culture & discovery · Adventure & active travel
Plan something like this

Planning your journey

When to go

May–June and September–October are generally considered the most pleasant months: the sea is usually already (or still) warm, and the towns and parks are calmer. July and August are hot and busiest. Istria's truffle season typically gathers pace in autumn. In winter many islands slow right down and some ferries run less often. Conditions vary from year to year.

How long to allow

A week suits a single region — Istria or a stretch of the Dalmatian islands; to cover the coast from Istria to Dubrovnik, allow two weeks. On the islands, plan to stay at least two or three nights.

Natural combinations

Croatia combines naturally with north-eastern Italy — Istria is close to Trieste and Venice. Following the coast south you can continue towards Albania, and an island journey can carry on in Greece.