The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi at dusk, its domes and minarets reflected in a pool

Arabian Peninsula

United Arab Emirates

White marble and a rain of light beneath a dome, abras crossing Dubai Creek, date palms at the foot of Liwa's dunes and coffee scented with cardamom.

Photo: David Rodrigo / Unsplash

For many people the United Arab Emirates means Dubai's glass and steel, or a change of planes. Yet the federation of seven emirates was only formed in 1971, and life here is far older: shores of pearl divers and trading dhows, camel routes across the desert and oases watered for centuries by underground channels called aflaj. Wind towers above the Al Fahidi quarter, wooden abras still ferrying people across Dubai Creek, and coffee scented with cardamom and served with dates to welcome a guest are all still part of daily life.

Abu Dhabi shows a different, calmer face. The courtyard of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is paved in white marble inlaid with flowers, and on Saadiyat Island, at the Louvre Abu Dhabi, points of light fall onto the water through Jean Nouvel's latticed dome. At the heart of the old city stands Qasr Al Hosn, the oldest surviving building in the city, telling how a settlement of fishermen and pearl divers grew into a capital. Nearby, in the warehouses of Alserkal Avenue in Dubai and in the museums of Sharjah, the region's contemporary art scene is thriving.

Then the desert. Southwest of Abu Dhabi, the crescent of the Liwa oases rests against the Rub al Khali, the Empty Quarter, one of the largest sand seas on earth, where the dunes turn red as the sun goes down. To the east, date palms rustle above old irrigation channels in the oasis of Al Ain, and near the Omani border the brown Hajar mountains rise around the lake of Hatta Dam. In between are beaches, exceptional hotels and easy distances, which is why the Emirates suit families and couples alike, as well as a few days on the way to somewhere further.

Why go

01
Abu Dhabi and Saadiyat Island
The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is best early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the marble warms in the sun, and in the evening soft light falls across its domes. The fort of Qasr Al Hosn tells the story of the city, and in the Saadiyat cultural district the Louvre Abu Dhabi brings together art from many civilisations beneath its great dome. There is time, too, for a walk along the Corniche and dinner by the water.
02
Old Dubai along the Creek
In Al Fahidi, wind towers, coral-stone houses, small galleries and courtyards that offer easy shelter from the heat. An abra carries you across the Creek to Deira, where the spice and gold souks smell of saffron, frankincense and dried limes. In the afternoon, Alserkal Avenue: former warehouses in Al Quoz turned into galleries, design studios and cafés. The skyline is always in view, but it isn't the point.
03
The Liwa oases and the dunes of the Empty Quarter
About three hours' drive from Abu Dhabi, groves of date palms curve along the edge of the Rub al Khali, and behind them rise some of the highest dunes in the region, among them Tal Moreeb. It's worth staying at least two nights: walking the dunes at dawn while the sand is still cool, watching the sunset from a ridge and spending the evening beneath the stars, far from city lights.
04
Al Ain and the Hajar mountains around Hatta
In the oasis of Al Ain, inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List, shaded paths lead between palms and falaj channels, with forts and a palace museum nearby. Above the city rises Jebel Hafeet, with its winding road to the top. Further northeast, in Dubai's enclave of Hatta, there are kayaks on the dam lake between brown mountains, hiking and cycling trails and a restored heritage village.

Ways to travel

Ways to experience it

Ways to travel aren't separate paths — the best journeys often bring several together.

Culture & discovery
A guided visit to the mosque, Qasr Al Hosn and the Louvre Abu Dhabi, Al Fahidi's courtyards, Deira's souks, the galleries of Alserkal Avenue and the museums of Sharjah, plus Emirati cooking: machboos, harees and luqaimat drizzled with date syrup.
Exceptional stays & escapes
Desert retreats among the dunes of Liwa, quiet beach resorts on Saadiyat or the east coast and small boutique hotels in old Dubai, chosen around the way you like to spend your time.
Family journeys
Short distances, comfortable hotels and beaches, dunes and camels, and for those who want them, theme parks on Yas Island. In the heat, we plan days so that time outdoors falls in the morning and evening.
Tailor-made journeys
A few days' stopover on the way to the Maldives, Sri Lanka or Africa, or a full week with desert and mountains, shaped around your flights, the season and your pace.
Honeymoons & special journeys
Dinner under the stars in the dunes, a morning at the Louvre before the crowds and a few slow days by the sea: romantic, without being only a resort.
Adventure & active travel
Dune walks at dawn, kayaks on the lake at Hatta, mountain-bike trails in the Hajar and hikes in the mountains of Ras Al Khaimah, with the level of effort set around you and the season.

United Arab Emirates

Journey inspiration

Illustrative ideas for how a tailor-made journey could look. Not bookable packages: no prices, dates or inclusions are implied.

017–9 days
Abu Dhabi, the desert and Dubai
The mosque, Qasr Al Hosn and the Louvre, two nights among the dunes of Liwa, old Dubai along the Creek, the mountains at Hatta and a few quiet days by the sea.
Culture & discovery · Exceptional stays & escapes
Plan something like this
023–4 days
A stopover worth more than a connection
On the way to the Maldives or Asia: a day at Abu Dhabi's mosque and museums, an evening in the desert and a morning in old Dubai before flying on.
Tailor-made journeys · Culture & discovery
Plan something like this
0312–15 days
The Emirates and Oman
Abu Dhabi and Al Ain, then over the Hajar mountains into Oman: Nizwa, Jebel Akhdar, the Wahiba Sands and Muscat.
Tailor-made journeys · Culture & discovery
Plan something like this

Planning your journey

When to go

November to March is generally the most comfortable time: days are warm and sunny, and desert nights can be cool. October and April are already hot but usually still pleasant. From roughly May to September the heat often passes 40°C and the coast is humid, so summer days are spent outdoors in the early morning and evening, with museums and hotels in between. Ramadan moves each year; during it days are quieter, some places keep different hours, and evenings after iftar are lively and welcoming.

How long to allow

Three or four days allow time for Abu Dhabi or Dubai and an evening in the desert; a week to nine days fits both cities, two nights in Liwa, Al Ain or Hatta and some time by the sea. Distances are modest and the roads good, but the heat sets the rhythm, so we plan days calmly with a pause at midday.

Natural combinations

The Emirates combine naturally with Oman, by road through Al Ain or Hatta or on a short flight to Muscat. With so many direct flights, they also work as a stopover of a few days on the way to the Maldives or Sri Lanka, and Jordan or Egypt are only a few hours' flight away.

Areas to explore

Abu Dhabi and Saadiyat
The Grand Mosque, Qasr Al Hosn, the Louvre and quiet beaches.
Liwa and the Empty Quarter
Palm oases and tall red dunes on the edge of the Empty Quarter.
Al Ain
A city of oases, falaj channels, forts and the mountain of Jebel Hafeet.
Dubai
Al Fahidi, the Creek and its abras, the souks of Deira, Alserkal Avenue and the coast.
Hatta and the east coast
The Hajar mountains, the dam lake and the Gulf of Oman beaches near Fujairah.

General guidance only. Weather, seasons and wildlife are never guaranteed, and travel requirements are always worth checking before you go.

Sample journey