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A domed mosque and minaret on the Kuching waterfront by the Sarawak River at golden hour

Sample journey · 9–11 days

Sarawak, from the river city to the caves of Mulu

Kuching, Bako, Semenggoh, an Iban longhouse & Gunung Mulu

Photo: S.Ratanak / Unsplash

Illustrative journey ideas — not bookable packages. No prices, dates or accommodation are implied.

When people talk about Malaysian Borneo they usually mean Sabah: Mount Kinabalu and the Kinabatangan River. Sarawak, the larger and quieter Malaysian state to the west, sees fewer travellers, yet it holds some of Borneo's most remarkable places. Kuching is one of Southeast Asia's most pleasant cities, with its waterfront, old trading streets, temples and mosques, and within an hour or so lie Bako National Park, whose shores are home to proboscis monkeys, and the Semenggoh forest, where orangutans roam free.

The second half of the journey heads into river country, where Iban communities still live in longhouses, and to Gunung Mulu, a UNESCO World Heritage park where some of the largest known caves run beneath limestone mountains. It suits travellers who love nature and don't mind heat, humidity and long trails: days start early and evenings end with the sounds of the jungle. Stays range from a heritage house in Kuching and a river lodge near the longhouses to a lodge at the gates of the Mulu park.

The route

The journey

  1. Kuching
  2. Semenggoh Nature Reserve
  3. Bako National Park
  4. An Iban longhouse near Batang Ai
  5. Gunung Mulu National Park
  6. Miri
  1. A young orangutan hanging from a branch at Semenggoh, near Kuching

    01Days 1–2 · Kuching & Semenggoh

    A river city and the people of the forest

    Kuching is usually reached via Kuala Lumpur or Singapore, and the first two nights are here, in a heritage house or a quiet hotel near the river. In the evening, a walk along the waterfront, a crossing in a little local boat and dinner from Sarawak's kitchen: laksa, kolo mee and midin fern with garlic. The next morning, Semenggoh Nature Reserve, about half an hour from town. It's home to semi-wild orangutans, once rescued and now free in the forest; at feeding times they often come to the platforms, though in the fruiting season they sometimes stay deep in the trees. In the afternoon, the Borneo Cultures Museum, a good introduction to Sarawak's many peoples, and the old streets with their Chinese temples, goldsmiths and spice shops.

  2. A proboscis monkey sitting high in a tree near Kuching

    02Days 3–4 · Bako National Park

    Proboscis monkeys and sea stacks

    About forty-five minutes by road to Bako village, then roughly half an hour by boat along the mangrove coast; the crossing depends on the tide. Bako is Sarawak's oldest national park, small but remarkably varied: mangroves, rainforest, a heath plateau with pitcher plants and sandy coves between sandstone cliffs. With a guide you walk trails where proboscis monkeys often feed in the canopy and bearded pigs wander calmly along the beach. For this route we suggest a night in the park's simple lodge: it leaves time for a night walk, when frogs, insects and sometimes snakes appear, and the morning trail is quiet. If you'd rather have more comfort, you can return to Kuching and come back at dawn.

  3. 03Days 4–6 · An Iban longhouse

    A whole village under one roof

    On day four, a long but absorbing journey east: about four or five hours by road past pepper farms and villages, with the last stretch by longboat on the river. Two nights at a river lodge near Batang Ai, or similar river country, from where you visit an Iban longhouse with a local guide. Dozens of families live under a longhouse roof, and the shared gallery, the ruai, is both street and meeting place. The hosts talk about farming, hunting and weaving, sometimes offer a taste of tuak, rice wine, and in the evening there may be gongs. The second day brings a forest walk to a stream or waterfall and a swim in the river. We always visit with a local guide and on the hosts' terms, and the guide explains how to behave and what gift to bring.

  4. A green forest lizard on a stem in Gunung Mulu National Park, Sarawak

    04Days 7–10 · Gunung Mulu

    Beneath the limestone mountains

    On day six you return to Kuching, and the next morning fly to Mulu, usually via Miri, in a small plane over the forest. Three nights on the edge of the park. The first afternoon, a boardwalk through the forest to Deer Cave, whose mouth could hold several cathedrals, and at dusk, weather permitting, millions of bats stream out of it in long ribbons. The next day, by boat up the Melinau River to Wind Cave and Clearwater Cave, stopping at a Penan market where crafts are sold. On the third day, the canopy skywalk, one of the longest tree-top walkways in the world, and a night walk. For strong, experienced walkers there's an alternative: two nights out on the Pinnacles trek, a very steep climb with ropes and ladders that demands real fitness. On day ten, a flight to Miri and the connection home.

Experience highlights

  1. 01

    The bat exodus at Deer Cave

    At dusk, weather permitting, millions of bats leave the cave in long, twisting ribbons.

  2. 02

    Proboscis monkeys at Bako

    Guided trails early and late in the day, when the monkeys usually feed in the canopy.

  3. 03

    Nights near the longhouse

    The ruai gallery, the hosts' stories and a river that brings you to the village by boat.

  4. 04

    Mulu's canopy skywalk

    Suspended bridges between giant trees, where the forest looks entirely different from above.

First, we listen. Then, we explore what's possible.

Make it your own

  • With the Pinnacles

    Two extra nights in Mulu make room for both the caves and the Pinnacles trek, for fit walkers with a head for heights only.

  • A gentler version

    A day trip to Bako from Kuching instead of a night in the park, and a Bidayuh village closer to the city instead of the long journey to the longhouses.

  • In the wetter months

    From November to February rain is more frequent, and Bako boats and river journeys depend on the sea and water levels, so we build a spare day into the route.

  • With Sabah

    From Miri a short flight leads to Kota Kinabalu: with the Kinabatangan River and Mount Kinabalu, it becomes a journey of almost three weeks across Malaysian Borneo.

Practical considerations

  • Sarawak is hot and humid all year. The drier months are usually roughly March to October; from November to February rain is more frequent and the sea off Bako can be rougher.
  • Mulu can only be reached by air (usually via Miri) or by a long river journey; small planes have baggage limits and schedules change, so we check them before you travel.
  • The Pinnacles trek needs a very good level of fitness: it's a steep climb over sharp limestone with ropes and ladders. We check park rules and guiding requirements in advance.
  • The orangutans at Semenggoh are semi-wild, so sightings are never guaranteed. We visit longhouses with local guides, on their terms, and check current entry requirements and travel advice before you travel.

General guidance only. Seasons, weather and wildlife are never guaranteed, and travel requirements are always worth checking before you go.

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