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A walker on the stony slope of Kiilopää in Urho Kekkonen National Park, with autumn-coloured fells in the distance

Sample journey · 6–8 days

Lapland in ruska, when the fells turn to fire

Pallastunturi, Levi, Saariselkä & Urho Kekkonen National Park

Photo: Harri P / Unsplash

Illustrative journey ideas — not bookable packages. No prices, dates or accommodation are implied.

Most people picture Lapland in winter, with snow, husky sleds and Father Christmas. This route chooses the brief autumn season the Finns call ruska: roughly in early or mid-September, over a few weeks, the fell tops and slopes turn red, orange and gold, and the air is crisp and clear. The mosquitoes have almost gone, the trails are empty and the nights are darkening again, so on a clear evening the first northern lights of the season may appear over a lake.

The journey links Lapland's two largest national parks: in the west, Pallas–Yllästunturi with its long chain of bare fells; in the east, Urho Kekkonen National Park, whose forests and river valleys stretch to the Russian border. Between them, a night near Levi. It's for active couples and slow travellers who like to walk a few hours a day and value simple, warm stays with a sauna over luxury. If you wish, one night could be spent in an open wilderness hut, the others in comfortable log cabins.

The route

The journey

  1. Kittilä
  2. Pallastunturi
  3. The Hetta–Pallas trail & a wilderness hut
  4. Levi
  5. Saariselkä & Kaunispää
  6. Urho Kekkonen National Park & Kiilopää
  7. Ivalo
  1. A walker on an open slope of Pallastunturi, with forest and distant fells below

    01Days 1–4 · Pallastunturi

    A chain of fells above the forest

    From Kittilä airport it's about an hour's drive to Pallastunturi, where the hotel or cabins sit right beneath the fells in the middle of the national park. Three nights here. On the first day, an easy loop to Taivaskero, the highest of the Pallas fells (about 800 m), with a view over tens of kilometres of forest and lakes; the Olympic flame for the 1952 Helsinki Games was lit here. On the second day, stronger walkers take part of the Hetta–Pallas trail, one of Finland's oldest hiking routes, north across the bare fells, and spend the night in an open wilderness hut: a stove, bunks, firewood and silence. In these huts we always make room for whoever arrives later. Those who prefer a gentler day return to the cabin, take a shorter loop by a lake and spend the evening in the sauna. On the third day everyone meets again.

  2. 02Days 4–5 · Levi

    A resort in its quiet season

    About an hour south-east lies Levi, Finland's best-known ski resort, which in autumn is quite different: the lifts are still, the streets empty, and the fell's slopes and the surrounding bogs have turned the colours of ruska. In the afternoon, a walk to the top of Levi fell or a loop around the lake at its foot, and in the evening, if the sky is clear, it's worth heading away from the lights: in September the nights are already dark enough for the northern lights to appear, though nobody can promise them. One night here is enough; it's more a pause between the two parks than a destination. The next morning brings the longest drive, about three hours east via Sodankylä, past birch woods, bogs and reindeer, which often stand right on the road.

  3. Orange and gold autumn birches reflected in dark lake water near Saariselkä

    03Days 5–6 · Saariselkä & Kaunispää

    Autumn colours by the water

    The last three nights are in a log cabin near Saariselkä, on the edge of Urho Kekkonen National Park. In the afternoon after the drive, a short climb up Kaunispää fell, from which ruska spreads in every direction, and in September the sunset is long and soft. In the evening, the sauna and, if you like, cold lake water afterwards. The next day, an easy walk past streams and small lakes, where birches are mirrored in dark water, picking bilberries and lingonberries on the way: in Finland everyone has the right to roam freely and pick berries. On clear evenings, it's worth going down to a lake after dark, where the aurora is sometimes reflected as brightly as it shines in the sky.

  4. A Siberian jay perched on an outstretched hand in the autumn forest of Urho Kekkonen National Park

    04Days 6–8 · Urho Kekkonen National Park

    Into a park that runs to the border

    Urho Kekkonen National Park is one of the largest in Finland: its fells, pine forests and river valleys run more than a hundred kilometres east. The main day is a walk from Kiilopää: a stony path to the top of the fell (about 550 m), with the whole park spread out below, and on to the small lake of Rautulampi with its open hut, a good place to stop for lunch by the fire pit. The full loop takes five or six hours, but a shorter one is possible. Inquisitive Siberian jays often appear in the forest, sometimes landing right on an outstretched hand, and reindeer graze on the slopes. On the last evening, the sauna again, and on day eight it's about half an hour to Ivalo airport and the flight home via Helsinki.

Experience highlights

  1. 01

    Ruska on the fells

    A few autumn weeks when the tundra turns red and gold.

  2. 02

    A night in a wilderness hut

    A stove, bunks and silence halfway along the Hetta–Pallas trail, for those who want it.

  3. 03

    Kiilopää & Rautulampi

    A walk across the fells of Urho Kekkonen National Park to a small lake with a fire pit.

  4. 04

    The first auroras

    September nights are dark again, and on a clear evening the northern lights sometimes appear.

First, we listen. Then, we explore what's possible.

Make it your own

  • A longer trek

    Experienced walkers can take the whole Hetta–Pallas trail, about 55 km over three or four days with nights in huts, stretching the journey to ten days.

  • Slower and more comfortable

    Instead of the hut, every night in a cabin, shorter trails, and Levi can be skipped for a longer stay at Pallas or Saariselkä.

  • The season

    Ruska starts at a slightly different time each year, usually in early or mid-September; late August is warmer but still buggy, and by late September the leaves are falling and snow is possible.

  • With Lake Inari

    From Ivalo, it's worth adding two days on Lake Inari, where the Sámi museum and local guides, on their own terms, share what Sámi life is like today.

Practical considerations

  • Ruska usually falls roughly in early to mid-September, but the exact timing varies from year to year; days are cool and nights can already bring frost, so warm layers and waterproof footwear are needed.
  • The journey is planned as a self-drive; roads are good and quiet, but reindeer are often on them, so we drive slowly, especially at dusk.
  • Open wilderness huts are for everyone and can't be reserved, so space isn't guaranteed; we check their rules and alternatives before you travel.
  • The northern lights depend on solar activity and cloud cover: in September they're possible, but never guaranteed.

General guidance only. Seasons, weather and wildlife are never guaranteed, and travel requirements are always worth checking before you go.

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