Sri Lanka's two monsoons: which coast, and when

The two monsoons, simply

• South-west monsoon – roughly May to September: wetter on the west and south coasts (Colombo, Bentota, Galle, Mirissa) and the western slopes of the hills. The east coast is usually dry and sunny then.
• North-east monsoon – roughly November to February: wetter in the north and east (Trincomalee, Pasikudah, Arugam Bay). The west and south coasts are usually at their best then.
• In between – October to November, and around April: afternoon storms are possible island-wide, and October is often among the wettest months.

The winter journey: December to April

This is Sri Lanka's classic season, and it appeals particularly to Lithuanians because it coincides with our darkest months. The route usually runs in a loop: from Negombo or Colombo to the Cultural Triangle – Sigiriya, Dambulla, Polonnaruwa – then Kandy and the train through the tea hills to Ella, finishing on the south coast: the lanes of Galle Fort and the bays of Mirissa and Tangalle, where the sea is usually calm at this time.

In winter and spring there are often whale-watching trips off the south coast, and the safari season continues in Yala and Udawalawe. It's also the busiest time, so the best places to stay, especially around Christmas and New Year, are worth booking early.

The summer journey: May to September

Many assume summer isn't the time for Sri Lanka. It is – you simply turn the route around. The Cultural Triangle lies in the island's dry zone, so in summer it's usually dry and hot, and in nearby Minneriya elephants often gather in large herds by the reservoir in the dry months. In the hills, the eastern side around Ella and Haputale is usually drier than the west in summer.

And then – not the south, but the east. The beaches of Trincomalee and the reef at Pigeon Island, the calm lagoons of Pasikudah, Gal Oya, where elephants sometimes swim across the lake, and Arugam Bay with its surf and fishing boats. The east coast is less developed than the south, and for many that makes it the highlight of the trip. In July and August, during the school holidays, it's a very good route for families.

What doesn't change

Whichever coast is yours, the heart of the journey stays the same: a dawn climb up Sigiriya, temples and ruins, mist in the tea hills, a slow train and a curry with ten different sides. Sri Lanka works beautifully in two weeks, since distances are short and the island varied, which is exactly why it's tempting to move every day. We'd suggest the opposite: fewer bases, two or three nights each, and at least a few days in one place by the sea to finish.

In Sri Lanka the question isn't 'is this the right time?' but 'which coast is waiting now?'

Tell us when you can travel and who with – as a couple, with children or with friends – and what matters most: the sea, wildlife, hills or temples. Together we'll choose the coast and the route that will be at their best then.