The Balkans, Southeastern Europe
Albania
An Ionian coastline, Ottoman towns and mountains that have yet to learn how to hurry.
Photo: Marie Volkert / Unsplash
Albania surprises many with how close it is and how much still feels authentic. In the south, the Ionian Sea washes pebble beaches beneath olive-covered hills, with mountain villages such as Vuno and Upper Qeparo above them. Inland stand Berat, the “city of a thousand windows”, and stone-built Gjirokastër — both UNESCO-listed.
In the north rise the Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps: a ferry across Lake Koman, the hike between the Valbona and Theth valleys, and nights in family-run guesthouses. It's a country where hospitality is heartfelt, food is simple and delicious, and a traveller still feels like a guest.
Experiences to consider
- 01
Berat and Gjirokastër
White Ottoman-era houses stepping up the hillside, castles people still live in and the stone roofs of Gjirokastër — towns best explored on foot with a local guide.
- 02
The Albanian Riviera
The view from the Llogara Pass, the beaches of Himarë and Borsh, the fortress at Porto Palermo and, out of season, quiet coves to yourself.
- 03
Butrint and the south
The ancient city of Butrint in woodland by a lagoon, where Greek, Roman and Venetian traces intertwine, with the islets of Ksamil and the Blue Eye spring nearby.
- 04
The Accursed Mountains
A ferry along winding Lake Koman, the hike over the pass from Valbona to Theth and dinners made from the family farm's produce — usually in summer and early autumn.
Ways to travel
Ways to experience it
Ways to travel aren't separate paths — the best journeys often bring several together.
Culture & discovery
Ottoman towns, ancient ruins and a history best told by local guides.
Adventure & active travel
The Valbona–Theth hike, the Lake Koman ferry and coastal paths between Riviera villages.
Tailor-made journeys
A private driver and a well-considered route — in Albania, this makes mountain roads relaxed and comfortable.
Exceptional stays & escapes
Family guesthouses in the mountains, restored Ottoman houses in the old towns and homes overlooking the Ionian Sea.
Sample journey
More journey inspiration
9–11 days
Albania on foot, by ferry and along the coast
Lake Koman, Valbona and Theth, Berat, Gjirokastër and the Ionian coast
Small-group adventures · Adventure & active travel
10–12 days
Peaks of the Balkans: a trek through three countries' mountains
Theth, Valbona, Dobërdol, Rugova, Plav, Gusinje & Grbaja
Adventure & active travel · Small-group adventures
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