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Granite ridges and pines in Seoraksan National Park

Sample journey · 10–12 days

Korea by rail and on foot: Seoraksan, Andong and the south coast

Seoul, Sokcho & Seoraksan, Andong, Jeonju, Suncheon & Yeosu, Busan

Photo: Austin Curtis / Unsplash

Illustrative journey ideas — not bookable packages. No prices, dates or accommodation are implied.

Many first-time visitors to Korea follow the Seoul–Gyeongju–Jeju line. This sample route takes another road: from the granite of Seoraksan in the north-east, through Andong's Confucian heritage and the cooking of Jeonju, to the marshes and port towns of the south coast. Walking in Korea's mountains is a national pleasure; trails are well kept, and there is always a temple or a teahouse along the way.

The journey is active but not hard: a few hiking days, with trains, intercity buses and long dinners of countless small side dishes in between. It suits curious, active travellers who want to see how Korea lives beyond the capital. The pace and the length of the walks would be shaped around you.

The route

The journey

  1. Seoul
  2. Sokcho & Seoraksan
  3. Andong
  4. Jeonju
  5. Suncheon & Yeosu
  6. Busan
  1. The old stone city wall on wooded Namsan hill, with Seoul Tower above

    01Days 1–2 · Seoul

    The capital from its city wall

    After the long flight, the first day is for recovering, and on the second it's worth seeing Seoul from above: the old city wall winds over the hills, and its stretches above Namsan or Naksan make a fine start to a walking journey. In the afternoon, the quiet lanes of Seochon beside Gyeongbokgung Palace; in the evening, market snacks. Two nights are enough to warm up before heading for the mountains.

  2. A footbridge over a rocky stream among autumn trees in Seoraksan National Park

    02Days 3–5 · Sokcho & Seoraksan

    Granite above the sea

    A bus crosses the Gangwon mountains in about two and a half hours to Sokcho, a fishing town on the north-east coast. Seoraksan National Park begins right on its edge: a hike to Ulsanbawi rock, with steep metal stairs on the final stretch, an easier trail along the stream to the rocks of Biseondae, or a cable car up to the ruins of an old fortress. In the evenings, Sokcho's fish market and the dishes of Abai village, founded by refugees from the North.

  3. The path to Hahoe village between autumn trees and hills near Andong

    03Days 6–7 · Andong

    A village in a river bend

    A longer transfer day through the mountains to Andong, the heart of Korea's Confucian culture. In Hahoe, a village wrapped on three sides by its river, descendants of the same clan still live, and you can stay overnight in a hanok guesthouse and, in season, watch the mask dance. In the morning it's worth climbing Buyongdae cliff on the opposite bank, and later visiting the Byeongsan Confucian academy. For dinner, Andong's braised chicken, jjimdak.

  4. Tiled hanok roofs at sunset in a traditional quarter

    04Day 8 · Jeonju

    Hanok roofs and bibimbap

    Jeonju is the culinary capital of Jeolla and, it is said, the birthplace of bibimbap. Its hanok quarter holds hundreds of traditional tile-roofed houses, and early in the morning, while it's still quiet, it's lovely to walk up to Omokdae hill. In the evening, try a makgeolli house, where each kettle of rice wine brings more side dishes, or the night market if your day coincides with it.

  5. Thatched-roof houses in a Korean folk village beneath a rocky mountain

    05Days 9–10 · Suncheon & Yeosu

    Reeds, temples and the sea

    A fast train reaches Suncheon in about an hour. In Suncheon Bay, boardwalks lead through vast reed beds that turn gold in autumn, and from the viewpoint hill the sunset is reflected in winding channels. Nearby are the walled Naganeupseong folk village with its thatched roofs, and mountain temples. Then Yeosu: a coastal town known for its seafood, the Hyangiram hermitage perched on rocks above the sea, and its harbour by night.

  6. Street-food vendors on an evening in Busan

    06Days 11–12 · Busan

    Coastal paths and market evenings

    A bus along the south coast to Busan. The last walking day follows the Igidae coastal path above the rocks and sea, with views of the city's towers, and in the afternoon the Huinnyeoul culture village clings to a cliff on Yeongdo island. In the evening, the Bupyeong night market or dwaeji gukbap, the pork soup the city is famous for. From Busan you fly home.

Experience highlights

  1. 01

    Ulsanbawi rock

    A steep hike to a granite outcrop in Seoraksan, looking over the mountains to the sea.

  2. 02

    A night in Hahoe

    A hanok guesthouse in a river bend, and a quiet morning before the day visitors arrive.

  3. 03

    Jeonju's table

    Bibimbap, makgeolli and endless side dishes in the region all of Korean cooking is proud of.

  4. 04

    Suncheon's reed beds

    Boardwalks through golden reeds, and sunset over winding channels.

First, we listen. Then, we explore what's possible.

Make it your own

  • With Jeju

    From Busan or Yeosu a short flight reaches Jeju, where the coastal Olle trails continue the walking journey.

  • A temple stay

    Mountain temples in Seoraksan or near Suncheon offer overnight stays with a chance to join the dawn ceremony.

  • More hiking

    For experienced hikers, a longer route along Seoraksan's main ridge with a night in a mountain shelter, if the trails are open at the time.

  • Slower

    Add a night in Andong and in Jeonju, and the transfers feel lighter and the dinners longer.

Practical considerations

  • The most pleasant seasons are spring (April–May) and autumn (October to early November), when the mountains colour; summer is hot, humid and rainy, and in winter the mountains are cold and icy.
  • Trails in Seoraksan and other national parks close for a period each year for fire prevention, usually in spring and late autumn; we would match the walks to the trail rules at the time.
  • Korea's trains and intercity buses are comfortable, but there are no direct trains between Sokcho, Andong and Jeonju, so some transfer days are longer; a driver can shorten them.
  • The Ulsanbawi hike is steep and needs good fitness; easier trail alternatives are available everywhere.

General guidance only. Seasons, weather and wildlife are never guaranteed, and travel requirements are always worth checking before you go.

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