Sample journey · 6–8 days
When Arabia turns green: Dhofar in the khareef
Salalah, Wadi Darbat, Mirbat, Jebel Samhan, Wadi Dawkah & Mughsail
Photo: Muhammad umar hayat Yahya / Unsplash
Illustrative journey ideas — not bookable packages. No prices, dates or accommodation are implied.
Our other Oman journeys take place in winter and in the north, among the Hajar mountains, the wadis and the Sharqiya Sands. This one is the opposite. From roughly late June to September the khareef, the edge of the Indian Ocean monsoon, reaches southern Dhofar: mist and fine drizzle drift in from the sea, the brown mountains are covered in grass within weeks, camels graze along the roads and temperatures hold in the low twenties. Families from across the Gulf greet this season the way we greet the first snow, so Salalah is lively and festive then.
But Dhofar is not only green. It is also the land of frankincense: Boswellia trees still grow in Wadi Dawkah, their resin made into incense for thousands of years, and along the coast lie the ports from which it sailed to Rome and India, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The journey is short and suits couples and experienced travellers who have already seen northern Oman or want a different Arabia, and it combines easily with other destinations. Stays range from a quiet resort by a lagoon to a house by the sea in Mirbat.
The route
The journey
- Salalah & Al Baleed
- Wadi Darbat & Khor Rori
- Mirbat
- Jebel Samhan
- Wadi Dawkah & Jebel Qara
- Mughsail
- Salalah
01Days 1–3 · Salalah
Coconuts, bananas and a frankincense port
Most flights arrive via Muscat or a Gulf hub, and on landing in Salalah the air is at once different: humid, cool and grey. Three nights by the sea near town. First, Al Baleed, the ruins of a medieval port city among lagoons and palms, and the Museum of the Frankincense Land beside it, which explains how resin from these mountains reached the markets of Rome and China. Then the frankincense souq, with burners trailing wisps of smoke, and roadside stalls selling fresh coconut water and small bananas from the surrounding plantations. Along the coast lie the khors, saltwater lagoons where flamingos, herons and other migrating birds often gather. The evenings are slow, with fish and Omani coffee scented with cardamom.
02Days 3–4 · Wadi Darbat & Khor Rori
Waterfalls among the clouds
About forty minutes east, the road climbs into Wadi Darbat, a valley that during the khareef becomes one of the greenest places in Arabia. When there has been enough rain, waterfalls pour over limestone terraces, and you can take a small boat across the lake below among fig and tamarind trees. Cattle and camels wander the pastures, and families from the mountain tribes set up tents on the slopes. Below, by the sea, lie Khor Rori and Sumhuram, a port founded more than two thousand years ago from which frankincense was shipped. Among the stone walls it's easy to imagine storerooms full of resin, while today wading birds work the lagoon. The falls depend on the rain, so their flow varies from year to year and even week to week.
03Days 4–6 · Mirbat & Jebel Samhan
An old harbour and the edge of the mountain
On east along the coast to Mirbat, and two nights in a quiet spot by the sea. In the old town, abandoned merchants' houses with carved wooden shutters, a fort above the harbour and fishing boats pulled up on the shore. Nearby is the white, domed tomb of Bin Ali, one of the oldest Islamic sites in Dhofar. The next day we climb Jebel Samhan: the road winds through green slopes to the edge of the plateau, from where, when the cloud parts, the whole coast lies below. On the way, the Tawi Attair sinkhole, a huge hollow in the limestone, and frankincense trees clinging to the rocks. The mountains shelter the Arabian leopard, but seeing one is almost impossible; it's enough to know it's there.
04Days 6–7 · Wadi Dawkah & Jebel Qara
The trees that gave the incense
The road heads back west and north over the mountains, and on the far side the mist suddenly ends and a dry, sunny land of stone begins. Here in Wadi Dawkah grow hundreds of Boswellia trees, low and twisted, their bark cut so the resin can seep out. With a local guide we learn how grades of frankincense are told apart, why the best harvest comes in the hottest months and how this trade once enriched the whole Arabian Peninsula. On the way back, Jebel Qara and the tomb of the Prophet Job on a hilltop, revered by Muslims and people of other faiths; modest dress is worn here. The last two nights are on the western side of Salalah by the sea, close to Mughsail.
05Days 7–8 · Mughsail
A sea that breathes through the rocks
About forty minutes west is Mughsail, a long white beach beneath steep cliffs. In the khareef the sea here is restless, and the blowholes become the main event: waves surge under the limestone and force jets of spray up through the openings with a roar. Nearby is Marneef Cave, looking along the coast. Beyond, the road climbs in hairpins into the mountains, with the coast far below when the mist allows, and on the other side descends to Fizayah bay, with its white sand and rocks. In the afternoon, back to the sea, and on the last evening dinner with grilled fish and fresh fruit from Salalah's gardens. The next morning, the flight back to Muscat or straight to a Gulf hub and on home.
Experience highlights
- 01
A green Arabia
Mist, grass and waterfalls where the mountains stand brown for the rest of the year.
- 02
The frankincense trail
The valley of Boswellia trees, the port of Sumhuram and Al Baleed: UNESCO's Land of Frankincense.
- 03
Old Mirbat
Merchants' houses with carved shutters and a fort above the harbour.
- 04
The Mughsail blowholes
The monsoon sea, shooting spray up through holes in the limestone.
First, we listen. Then, we explore what's possible.
Make it your own
With northern Oman
The north is hot in summer, so the best combination is a few days on cooler Jebel Akhdar or in Muscat, then Dhofar.
Outside the monsoon
From October to March Dhofar is dry and sunny: the sea is calm for swimming, the beaches empty and the frankincense sites just as interesting, only without the green.
With the Empty Quarter
Outside the khareef, a night at a desert camp on the edge of the Empty Quarter can be added, beyond the mountains and a world away from the mist.
Longer by the sea
Two more nights at a resort by the lagoon turn the journey into a restful holiday, ideal after a busier trip elsewhere.
Practical considerations
- The khareef usually runs from roughly late June to September, but its start, strength and how green it gets vary every year. July and August bring the most visitors from the Gulf to Salalah, so we book stays early.
- Thick fog and camels wandering onto the mountain roads are normal, so we suggest a driver, or driving slowly and only by day.
- During the monsoon the sea is rough and currents are strong: swimming is often banned on the beaches, so the sea is enjoyed from the shore.
- Modest dress is worn at holy sites and in villages. Flight schedules to Salalah change in summer, and we check them when planning your journey.
General guidance only. Seasons, weather and wildlife are never guaranteed, and travel requirements are always worth checking before you go.
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