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A wooden boat on the calm water of Lan Ha Bay beneath limestone karsts

Sample journey · 12–14 days

Vietnam's north and centre, unhurried

Hanoi, Ninh Binh, Lan Ha Bay, Hue, the Hai Van Pass & Hoi An

Photo: Daniele Franchi / Unsplash

Illustrative journey ideas — not bookable packages. No prices, dates or accommodation are implied.

A first journey to Vietnam often tries to cover the whole country, from the northern mountains to the Mekong Delta. This route chooses differently: only the north and the central coast, so the time goes not on transfers but on mornings in Hanoi's streets, slow boat trips among the karsts and long evenings in Hoi An. You'll get to know Vietnam through its food, from pho at breakfast to a cooking class on the central coast.

The journey runs north to south with one domestic flight and one of the country's most beautiful roads, over the Hai Van Pass. It's an example that's easy to adapt: add walking in the hills around Sapa, more beach days, or a combination with Cambodia. Southern Vietnam and the Mekong Delta form a separate journey — 'By river from Saigon to Angkor'.

The route

The journey

  1. Hanoi
  2. Ninh Binh
  3. Lan Ha Bay
  4. Hue
  5. Hai Van Pass
  6. Hoi An
  7. Da Nang
  1. A woman in a conical hat cycles through Hanoi's Old Quarter

    01Days 1–3 · Hanoi

    Mornings in the Old Quarter

    Hanoi is best met early in the morning: older residents exercising by Hoan Kiem Lake, pots of pho steaming on the pavements and craftspeople already at work in Old Quarter streets named after the goods once sold there. A day could go to the Temple of Literature and the Museum of Ethnology, and an evening to a guided food walk: bun cha, egg coffee and a few things whose names you needn't remember.

  2. A boatman rowing on the river beneath limestone hills at Tam Coc, Ninh Binh

    02Days 4–5 · Ninh Binh

    Rivers among the limestone hills

    About two hours south, and the landscape turns into an ink painting: rice fields with sheer limestone hills rising out of them. At Tam Coc or Trang An, boatmen — often rowing with their feet — take you through caves and past temples. On the second day, cycle the village lanes or climb to the Mua Cave viewpoint at sunset. Nights are spent in small guesthouses among the fields.

  3. A floating fishing village and boats among the karsts of Lan Ha Bay

    03Days 6–7 · Lan Ha Bay

    A night among the karsts

    By road to the coast, then by boat into Lan Ha Bay, Ha Long's quieter neighbour off Cat Ba Island. In the afternoon, kayaks among the karsts and lagoons, a swim if the weather allows, and a visit to a floating fishing village. The evening and night are spent aboard, and the morning begins with quiet on deck. After lunch you return to Hanoi, flying to Hue the next morning.

  4. A figure walking through carved red doors in the Imperial Citadel, Hue

    04Days 8–10 · Hue & the Hai Van Pass

    The city of the last emperors

    Hue was Vietnam's capital until the mid-twentieth century. The courtyards and gates of the Imperial Citadel still hold a sense of ceremony, and along the Perfume River stand the emperors' tombs, each in its own garden. Evenings mean Hue's cooking, spicier and more refined than elsewhere. On the third day you head south over the Hai Van Pass: switchbacks above the sea and, on a clear day, views down the coast to Da Nang.

  5. A wooden boat with lanterns on the Thu Bon River at night, Hoi An

    05Days 10–14 · Hoi An

    The old port beneath the lanterns

    Hoi An's old town is best seen at two different times: at dawn, when the yellow merchant houses are still empty, and in the evening, when lanterns light up over the Thu Bon River. In between: tailors' workshops, a cooking class that begins at the market, and a bike ride past rice fields and vegetable villages to the beach. The last day could be entirely free. Da Nang airport is about 45 minutes away.

Experience highlights

  1. 01

    A Hanoi food walk

    An evening street-food route with a guide, the best way to understand how the city lives.

  2. 02

    Rowing boats in Ninh Binh

    A quiet river, caves and temples beneath sheer limestone hills.

  3. 03

    A night on Lan Ha Bay

    Fewer boats than Ha Long, kayaks among the karsts and a morning on deck.

  4. 04

    The Hai Van Pass

    One of Vietnam's most beautiful roads, between mountains and sea, on the way from Hue to Hoi An.

First, we listen. Then, we explore what's possible.

Make it your own

  • Into the mountains

    Add two or three days in Sapa or Ha Giang for walks through terraced rice fields and a night in a minority village.

  • With children

    Bikes in Ninh Binh, a night on a boat and a cooking class appeal to children, and beach days near Hoi An add rest.

  • Longer by the sea

    End with a few days on the beach between Da Nang and Hoi An, or at quieter Quy Nhon further south.

  • With Cambodia

    Fly from Da Nang to Siem Reap and end the journey among the temples of Angkor.

Practical considerations

  • Weather differs between north and centre: Hanoi's winter is cool and grey and its summer hot and humid, while the central coast often sees heavy rain and flooding from October to December.
  • February to May is usually the best window for the whole route; at other times the journey can be adjusted to the season.
  • Boats on Lan Ha Bay may not sail in stormy weather, so it's worth having a back-up plan for this part of the trip.
  • Flying between Hanoi and Hue is easiest; the overnight train is an interesting but slower alternative.

General guidance only. Seasons, weather and wildlife are never guaranteed, and travel requirements are always worth checking before you go.

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